#2: tokyo
plus a few bits from lake kawaguchi
In November while Jack and I were back home in Singapore visiting friends and family, we took a side quest to Japan. It had been 8 (9?) years since I was last there and Jack had never been, so bought our flights and booked our hotels for two weeks in Tokyo and Kyoto (more on that later.) I already had a few favourite spots saved from my last trips there but so much has changed since then, my taste and need for a nice hotel amongst other things, so then began my research.
I’m proud to share a list of places that weren’t found via TikTok or Instagram (no offense if that is your vibe) and gathered recommendations from various collected issues of Japanese magazines (Think Popeye and Brutus) and friends. I hope you enjoy this list as much as I made making it!
STAY
The first three nights of our Tokyo trip was spent at Yuen Bettei Daita - a perfect hotel located in Setagaya-Daita, a neighbourhood close to Shimokitazawa and less than 30 minutes to Shinjuku. The hotel is along a park connector, quiet and almost hidden. The best part about this place is the onsen, which was a treat before breakfast (also amazing) or at the end of the night. It was also lovely to stay in an area away from the busy centre and there was plenty to do in the neighbourhood.
JIMBOCHO
This area of Tokyo is known for its secondhand bookshops! And sports stores! We spent a bit of time at the legendary Komiyama and Genkido Books but didn’t come out with any purchases because the we didn’t want to lug our books around all day. Bad planning on our part!
Ladrio: After walking by the line for Udon Maruka, we decided to see what else was in the area and decided to go to this cozy cafe that was recommended to me by a friend, and it did not disappoint! They had two things for lunch – spaghetti neapolitan and curry rice. Two choices? Perfect. Remember to complete your meal with a Vienna coffee. I haven’t stopped thinking about her since (ꈍᴗꈍ)♡
Nanyodo Books: With all the rows and shelves of books at the other shops, this one allowed me to lock in and actually look around and find books I was more interested in. There was a large selection of architecture books and I ended up buying two small ones that I (Jack) didn’t mind carrying around the entire day.
Sasama: A quick pit stop for confectionery in the neighbourhood. I wanted to buy a box of all of the options available but stopped myself and just pointed at the three that looked the cutest. We ate them on the side of the street later on in the day and it was the perfect treat.
NAKAMEGURO/DAIKANYAMA
Coverchord: A cute multi-label store next to a seemingly very popular coffee stand which we didn’t try. They were having a jewelry pop up (I’m forgetting the name!) and I bought a pair of silver earrings that look exactly the same as the ones I got (and lost) in Seoul two years ago. There was also a rack of Auralee pieces and I ended up getting a pair of wool pants in the lightest minty green shade because the price was too good to pass up.
1LDK: Another multi-label store and cafe that Jack had on his list. They had a mix of Japanese and Western brands at a slightly higher price point, but everything was so beautiful.
I’m Donut: The rumours are true, this place rocks. There was a short line when we stumbled upon it so we decided to get one to share, which in hindsight was a very bad decision on our part because tell me why it was the softest donut I’ve ever had? By the time we had taken a big bite each (they are small) and realized how delicious it was, the line was too long. Maybe it would’ve been too much of a good thing if we bought one more. A similar feeling presented itself while we were in Kyoto later in the trip, and I keep telling myself that it probably wouldn’t have tasted as delicious the second time. I guess I’ll just have to go back again to test the theory!
Laekker: A tiny bakery along the way to Daikanyama. I didn’t plan our day well and we got there towards the end of the day, but we were lucky enough to get one of their cream puffs which was quite possibly the best cream puff I’ve ever had. Another win for the sweets! Nadia said they are known to have a very delicious banana danish which I want to try next time.
OMOTESANDO/AOYAMA
Nezu Museum: I will admit that the only reason why we came here was because we got to Aoyama early and none of the shops were open. But that turned out to be a good thing! We spent an hour mainly walking around the garden portion (love) of the museum but also inside where they had an exhibition on the Tales of Ise.
Arts&Science: Don’t quote me on this because I don’t actually remember where or how I got this information but in my mind, I read something somewhere that Arts&Science is like The Row of Japan. DON’T QUOTE ME. I was tempted by this hooded jacket that fell perfectly on my body (ugh!) but decided it was too early into our trip to be spending that much money, so I walked away with a striped wool scarf that brought me equally as much joy.
Pejite: A homeware store for people that like delicate ceramic ware.
Imabari Towel: I can’t explain the feeling you get when you go into the Imabari store and look at the wall of 50 (guesstimation) white towels, all slightly different. I didn’t even know what I liked in a towel until I touched all of them with my (clean) hands. Now I know that, as the name suggests, the ‘Amazing’ is my ideal choice. Sadly, I did not buy a full sized bath towel but I did pick up an assortment of face towels to remind me of the luxury my body deserves.
LAKE KAWAGUCHI
Our last three nights were spent with family friends who generously planned a trip to Lake Kawaguchi for us <3 Sadly it was the one rainy day
of the entire trip so we didn’t see Mount Fuji, but we enjoyed our time there nonetheless!
Sunaba: Our original plan was to go to みずのMIZUNOKAZE but they were closed :-( So we ended up at Sunaba, a little soba shop further away. The restaurant was quaint with photos of Mount Fuji in various seasons all over the walls and the meal was tasty!
Momiji Corridor: A touristy place to enjoy the autumn leaves for a good reason.
Hottarakashi Onsen: A public onsen with outdoor baths that offer a view of Mt Fuji. The men’s and women’s baths are separate, as tradition goes, but they allow tattoos! It was still quite cloudy despite the rain clearing up so we couldn’t even see a shadow of the mountain, but we still thoroughly enjoyed the baths and an onsen egg croquette afterwards.
Kawaguchiko Base: A fancy supermarket stopover on the way to the onsen. If you or a friend love beautifully packaged seaweed, area-specific noodle types (hoto) and specialty salt (one specific for fresh fruit and vegetables, anyone?) this is the place for you. I could’ve spent hours ogling at the premium produce and comparing one dashi to the next but only did a speed run through the aisles (out of compassion for our hosts) picking out items that looked fun and tasty.
OTHER NEIGHBOURHOODS
Azuki To Kouri (Yoyogi): In my mind, kakigori (shaved ice) is a dessert that is appropriate all year round. Like most special places in Tokyo, this one is easy to miss if you don’t know it’s there. Behind sliding glass doors is a small space with 7 counter seats that serves kakigori made with seasonal ingredients alongside it’s standard items. I made a reservation two weeks before (when the books open) and it was well worth it. Jack had the seasonal mikan flavour and I had the original red bean one, both were delicious.
IFUJI (Asakusa): A tiny shop near Kappanbashi that carries wooden shaker boxes in various shapes and sizes. The craftsmanship of the boxes are incredible, and each one felt so special in my hand. I picked up a tissue box (functional!) and a double decker oval box for my only two watches.
Nishiguchi Kutsushita (Asakusabashi): I didn’t plan on picking up over 10 pairs of socks on my trip but Jack’s sweaty feet dilemma (sorry Jack) brought us here and to Tabio. Both are excellent stores with a large variety of socks in every colour.
@Cosme (Harajuku): If you love skincare and beauty products, this is your place. I scrambled inside trying to look at every product while Jack lovingly waited outside for 45 minutes.
Itoya (Ginza): 8! levels! of stationery! Good thing this wasn’t around the last time Rachall and I were in Tokyo together because we would’ve lost our shittttttt. Now that I’m not as obsessed with notebooks, this felt like a seemingly safe place to go. I capped myself at 4 pens, washi tape and of course, a notebook, along with a few other souvenirs for friends.
Kappanbashi Street (Asakusa): A very overwhelming kitchen supplies heaven! There are countless of shops along the main street and they all kitchenware, some more specialty than others. If you are looking for something for your kitchen, they will have it here. I can’t tell you which shops I went into because they all started looking the same after the second one, but I trust that you will find what you need walking along the street, going into shops that call to you <3
Inokashira Park (Kichijoji): I remember coming to Kichijoji with Rachall and Yumi years ago, and it was just as charming as I remembered it. There are a ton of vintage stores and it is cute neighbourhood to walk around in. I recommend spending a time here along with Koenji and maybe the Edo Museum!
Ajito Okonomiyaki (Yoyogi): I can’t remember where we were going exactly but I remember the queue being too long, which reminded us of this okonomiyaki spot that we walked by earlier in the day on the way to Azuki To Kuori. We got classics like okonomiyaki and yakisoba plus an appetizer of cucumber and barley miso, which I’m still thinking about. Turns out if you’re a foreigner, they help you make your yaki dishes for you because chances are, you probably don’t know what you’re doing. Fine by me!
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I’m yours if you have any questions <3